Chinese did not have enough to eat 30 years ago; now it attracts many well-known western chefs to work in the fast-growing metropolitan cities, such as Shanghai and Beijing.  

Jereme Leung is one of those leading examples. The Hong-Kong born chef made waves as Chinese executive chef at the Four Seasons Hotel Singapore, and under his direction, Jiang Nan Chun became a haunt for food lovers in search of dishes that were traditional in soul, but served with a modern touch. By the time he left for Shanghai in 2003, it was no wonder that he had already swept numerous awards, which included the Rising chef of the year title at World Gourmet Summit Awards of Excellence.

Presently, as Chinese executive chef of Shanghai's landmark Three on the Bund, he has since climbed onto the international ladder and achieved international fame. With his 220-seater restaurant, Whampoa Club, he has set a benchmark and presented a whole new interpretation of Shanghainese cuisine. The fact that he is not from Shanghai did not pose a problem – he promptly went on an extensive research spree during the pre-opening days. He shared, "This includes going through great effort to locate a number of retired and well-reputed chefs in their eighties and inviting them to give lessons to our team on what 'real' Shanghainese cuisine is. Many lost scripts of Old Shanghainese cuisine has also been found and re-interpreted to form a new style." Within a few months of his opening, international and well-respected food critic from International Herald Tribune, Patricia Wells, gave him one of her highest accolades. In her review, she wrote, "It's been a long time since I got up from the table after dining in a restaurant and whispered to myself, "genius." But there's surely a touch of that talent in the young, sure-footed Hong Kong-born Jereme Leung, executive chef at Whampoa Club, the bright, expansive Art Deco-style restaurant in the popular Three on the Bund complex in Shanghai." With Whampoa Club, Leung has already made the new Chinese point – Chinese cuisine can easily stand alongside international names, such as his neighbors Nobu Matsuhisa, Jean Georges Vongerichten, David Laris.

"Shanghai these days is certainly more aggressive and lively. Firstly, it has a much bigger population, about four times Singapore's average population! Being the center of trade and commerce in China, millions of people pass through its door each day and its business is blooming, just like Hong Kong in 1970s and Singapore in the early 1980s. It is a great mix of competition and opportunities," he shared about his new playing field. Understandably, the clients are also different from what he was used to. He added, "The China market is still different from elsewhere and people have different impressions of fine dining. For example, plated cuisine might not go well here with the locals as less people understand the need and still believe in serving Chinese food the traditional way."

Despite the promise that Shanghai holds, Leung has not forgotten his old home, Singapore. "I really miss the people and action back home! It did take me some time to adjust and suit the new challenges," he admits. He will be heading our way soon to launch his new cookbook New Shanghainese Cuisine, with Marshall Cavendish, so perhaps some tasty reunions are in store in the near future.