For many, a visit to China is not complete without stepping foot on the Great Wall. Over the years, the Wall has not only become a national patriotic symbol promoted by Deng Xiaoping's 1984 campaign, "Love China, Restore the Great Wall," but also a global symbol of humanity's capabilities and flaws. Due to its rich history and mythical status as the longest man-made structure (at 4,500 miles), the Great Wall has become an almost required sight-seeing stop for all travelers to China. With 4 million visitors a year, the irony is not lost in knowing that a Chinese fortification built for the purpose of protecting dynasties from tribal raids, now specifically caters to invading hordes of foreigners through tours and kitschy merchandise, such as I Climbed the Great Wall T-shirts.
Unique Design
In China's haste to accommodate millions of visitors, great efforts are being made towards physical restoration, but frequently a sense of history becomes lost in the renovation process. For anyone intent on experiencing a section of the Great Wall that retains a more antiquated air, the Great Wall at Simatai remains one of the best options for spectacular views that preserve a sense of historical context.
Located in the north of Miyun County,130 kilometres northeast of Beijing, Simatai has been designated as a World Cultural Heritage site by UNESCO and has been described by some as the "best of the Great Wall." Originally built during the Northern Qi Dynasty (550-577) and then rebuilt during the Hongwu years of the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644) by Qi Jiguang,this section of Wall is known for its inimitable,unique design as one of the few areas to retain the original features of the Ming Dynasty Great Wall.
Simatai Great Wall is separated by the Miyun Reservoir into eastern and western parts. The western part is a comparatively moderate hike with 20 well-preserved watchtowers, while the eastern section with 16 watchtowers is much steeper with rocky terrain that makes hiking a more de-manding experience.
Close to the Wall
Despite enduring two hours of petulant behavior from my taxi driver - who never failed to remind me how far Simatai was or how he wished he was driving me to the much closer section of Badaling, the fresh air, stillness of the countryside, and breathtaking sight of the wall snaking into the mountainous distance made the drive immediately worth it. In addition, the Great Wall at Simatai was relatively people-free; I could count all the other travelers I saw the entire day on one hand. Granted, I went on a weekday; weekends are said to be more crowded due to tour groups that now frequent the Simatai section.
Hawkers, as in most places, are an inevitable problem, and I soon found myself with a personal entourage of three middle-age women trying to sell picture books and collect empty water bottles from me. They also imparted to me remarkable bits of wisdom such as, "this wall is very very old," and "there are many steps on the Great Wall," information that I hoped I would not have to financially compensate them for later.
Future travellers going to Simatai should be warned that revealing any Mandarin-speaking abilities (however small) will inevitably lead to having to listen to stories of hardship from locals for your entire hike; it's best to keep silent and just enjoy the view.
Breathtaking journey
The hike itself can be challenging, but the energy put into traversing lofty peaks and precipitous terrain - sometimes precariously close to cliff edges - is rewarded with unparalleled vistas. In some places the pathway was so steep that I found myself scrambling on all-fours. During those times I was especially thankful that I had brought a day-pack to hold my camera and other items, in addition to wearing shoes with a strong grip.
Nowadays there is a cable car, round trip tickets at 50 yuan (US$6), and one-way tickets
at 30 yuan (US$4), which serves as a drop-off point about 40 minutes on foot from the Wall. It could be a useful alternative if you have a sprained ankle or want to spend time wandering the Great Wall at a more leisurely pace.
In addition, there is a toboggan ride from the Wall to the cable car, costing 30 yuan. This element of the Wall experience is unnecessary and a waste of money, since anyone who wants to reach the cable car can walk directly to it via a flight of stairs.
During the hike, one of the local women turned my attention to construction in the distance that, she explained, was for the Olympics. The Chinese Government is also said to be prioritizing a renovation project for Simatai to be completed in time for the Olympic ceremonies in 2008, meaning the authentic nature of Simatai might change in the near future.
For now, Simatai remains breathtaking and tranquil. By distancing yourself from the area dotted with cable cars meandering down to the car park, and turning your gaze towards the hills calmly undulating far into the distance, it is possible to imagine history springing back to life. The image of solitary soldiers manning watchtowers over the years is suddenly more tangible than it has ever been. It is within this serene environment that you can begin to see how these echoes of history have settled into the Chinese countryside, and Simatai begins to feel like your own piece of Great Wall history.
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