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> Yangshuo Impression for a first timer |
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Yangshuo Impression for a first timer
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| Once content to be the shy little sister of Guilin, only an optional stop-over along the Li River, Yangshuo today has grown up, claiming its own identity as a tiny global village with a bohemian atmosphere, gorgeous natural scenery, exciting outdoor activities, great food, and rowdy nightlife, which naturally attracts more and more like-minded people. No matter what you do, you will find yourself ending up here.  Renowned as the east village of China, the famous West Street is surprisingly tiny. The random multicultural influence left behind by backpackers passing through from all over the world since 1980's, combined with local "southern china village" charm, west street is a familiar, yet exotic place for both foreigners and Chinese, alike. There's a pervasive sense of hedonism here, thus the best time to roam around is in the morning or early afternoon, when the streets aren't so crowded. It's not in the shops, but in the coffee houses and B&Bs on the street where you can find the true spirit of west street in full bloom: east meets west. Conversations run elbow-to-elbow between smiling locals and travelers dirty and dusty from a hike, over a cup of coffee, a slice of pizza, a bowl of rice-noodles or, most likely a local beer. Although English is the "semi-official" language here, it is certainly not the only language heard spoken in Yang Shuo. Of course, what initially attracted travelers from all around the world wasn't Yangshuo's "worldliness", but its unique local country charm and stunning scenery. And the best way to experience it is taking a bike tour around the town. The 1,400 year-old ban yan tree is a symbol of longevity and is also seen as the symbol of eternal love. Let's not forget what Zhuangzi said about life and love: "it's not how long it lasts that counts." China's own Romeo and Juliet story, "The Butterfly couple of Liangzhu", is inspired by these creatures butterflies that live no more than a month. The butterfly spring park is only a few minutes' bike ride from the ban yan tree park. It is the biggest butterfly farming and research center in China. During summer months, more than 70,000 butterflies of various kinds play out short- lived yet passionate love dramas here every day. Yangshuo has become world renowned for its rock-climbing scene, the national rock climbing festival is held here annually.
Most climbing routes are on easily accessible peaks close to the road and usually within a short bike ride from town. Climbing clubs around West Street are all run by China's rock-climbing pioneers. I met my guide Qiu Jiang on West Street when he was lounging in the afternoon sun, thus I didn't expect he could ballet dance-on-the-rocks this gracefully! Most established routes in Yangshuo have been bolted and currently there are about 300 established routes in the 5.9, 5.10 and 5.11 grades. But As a first timer, these difficulty scale figures mean nothing to me. What I need is a very steady rope and very reliable coach! Yes, we all look at the same thing, but see it differently. This young Japanese man paid "correct" attention and was so caught up by the beauty of Li River that he decided to work here without even getting paid. This young Japanese man is one of those travelers who don't just wander aimlessly, but come to a place for a good cause -- to assist one of his fellow countrymen whose story has touched people not only back home in Japan, but also people here in Xingping county. Mr. Lin Kezhi isn't just another foreign owner of a hostel, but a highly respected Japanese resident of Xingpin for the past 9 years. Since his early 30's, Lin has devoted most of his time to single-handed environmental volunteer work around south East Asia. After being in Nepal for 10 years building a hydroelectric power station, Lin came to Yunnan Province and eventually landed in Yangshuo. He built this home-turned-hostel residence and spent his days picking up litter and trash along the Li River, and even built a climbing path on Laozhai Hill behind his house with his own money. These days together with his Chinese wife, he is working on organizing a "clean Li River day" campaign-with 60,000 people, of which 5000 volunteers are coming from Japan, to clean the river together. But when you ask the simple question "Why he is doing all this?" The answer is also quite simple: because a cleaner river is more beautifulĄ. The Town of Fuli The bike tour from Yangshuo to Xing Pin, and then to the town of Fuli is a classic route. Compared to West Street in Yangshuo, the old streets here are much quieter. They almost feel deserted. Life takes an even slower pace here. Follow its rhythm, and you will soon learn to pick up the beat Folk art is a special genre of art that Fuli people are proud of. Among the standard paper fan souvenir that sells everywhere in Yangshuo, the best are said to come from here. An ancient town more than 1000 years old, Fuli is also the only place in Yangshuo where genuine Nanyue dance and music is still performed during high festivals. Nanyue originated from tribal sacrifice music more than 2000 years ago. Unlike most masked dances. In Nanyue dance, these masks are not to be worn but kept above the forehead; and the music follows the dancer's movements. It is normally performed solo or in pairs, imitating a battle between two opposing forces. Sometimes good and evil, sometimes spirits from river and earth. A qualified Nanyue shaman is expected to be well versed in martial art first, plus music and even medicine. The 81-year-old Mr. Nipu Ren is a 24th generation Nanyue shaman who still performs and teaches the chosen disciple regularly For most foreigners, Yangshuo is a slice of China's small town life, but for many Chinese youngsters, the whole of Yangshuo is an "English corner", the perfect place to study English without being abroad. If you happen to run into a group of young Chinese speaking English to each other excitedly, it's a good bet they're from one of the dozens of English language schools in town ¨C some of which even require students to speak English only while on campus. The incredibly delicious local Yangshuo cuisine owes much to the vast array of fresh ingredients available here. Authentic Chinese cuisine was born in the village where what one eats reflects the seasons and the environment, and equal attention is assigned to the food's taste, its texture, size, shape color and aroma. Yangshuo's most popular dish, beer fish is common on family dinner tables and at celebratory banquets. Our chef teacher Jacky promised it to be "a fish in the net" easy. Of course she forgot not everyone is teachable in the kitchen. It is said Li River is at it most beautiful when night falls, in the drizzle or in the foggy morning, which means nearly every touri st have fair chance to catch her veiled beauty. Stepping into the postcard image of Li River, joining a Cormorant night hunting tour is a standard but not-be-missed tourist experience. Luckily the boss only expects them to demonstrate a working spirit, rather than to deliver satisfactory results. Yes, the world can be really small, but only Yangshuo could be big enough to accommodate everyone who calls it home. Only in Yangshuo can you find a former NY urban life style writer and rock critic turned semi-permanent Yangshuo resident and yoga teacher. The natural beauty of the Li River has been turned into the ideal backdrop. He created a place for China's new generation of stressed-out professionals looking for a relaxing break from the pace of modern life in the city, and for travelers who want to do something more than just hit the standard tourist sites. Wuwei center is a commune-like academy started by a group of martial artists from the US, Israel, and of course China, offering courses in yoga, Taiji, Shaolin Kung Fu, plus Japanese and Israeli martial art forms. Students can live at the academy for anywhere from a week to several months, enjoying the comforts of India, Thailand and China while following a rigorous eight-hour daily training schedule that thankfully includes a daily massage class. It is time again to head back here sharing the stories of the day. For most people, including travelers and locals, the night can't be properly wrapped up without a swing by West Street. Yangshuo's nightlife is mostly that of a bar rather than a party scene, but not if you've met enough friends to make one of your own!
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